Hola! From Buenos Aires

Let’s talk about poop and vomit on vacation + street art

I took a last minute trip to Buenos Aires, Argentina this week. I’ve been here one other time before, on my honeymoon 12 years ago. In these two trips, I’ve learned a few things.

Cars here have the right of way; they do not yield to pedestrians. Same for poop and vomit; if a stomach bug hits you, it doesn’t care one iota that you had dinner reservations or plans for a bike tour through the city. Projectile bodily fluids will not yield whatsoever. And while we are talking about feces (once again) there is so much dog shit left on the sidewalks here that I am confident I’m coming back with a fair amount on my shoes and I’ll need to declare dog doo-doo at customs.

A pack of 4 legged likely culprits to the caca problem all over this town.

Naturally, I’ve been remembering the last time I was here. My husband and I opted for a smaller wedding in exchange for a South American tour for our honeymoon. But instead of grabbing trinkets and souvenirs on our trip, he picked up a parasite. By the time we traveled to Buenos Aires, his giardia was so bad that I spent much of my days exploring the city on my own. That little apartment’s toilet saw more action than us two newlyweds.

This time, a dozen years later, I visited friends who are short term living and working in the city. My friend’s husband sat through our first dinner here together feeling jittery and off. He assumed it was the coffee we drank late afternoon while grabbing empanadas. We got home and, well, let’s say things came out of him that night like a rocket ship. While he spent his day taking constant commutes from bed to bathroom, my friend worked as planned, leaving me with an open agenda. What is a gal to do? I put on my walking shoes, packed a water bottle and explored this city solo, again.

That’s how traveling goes sometimes. I’ve been on many trips in which a travel buddy or I gets hit with a bug. I do my best but if the situation turns shitty, pun intended. I am allowed to be bummed about it but, ultimately, I have the choice to switch mental gears and pave my path.

When I travel I like to set intentions. I either write them down in my journal, discuss them with my husband, or take a mental note. Most of these intentions include having the strength to roll with the punches, be flexible, and be OK with what comes my way. On my last international trip, both my kids got sick. I thought of those intentions and I believe it helped me reshape my attitude. I realized, while hugging a hot kid on vacation, this was one of the few times I was able to focus on them without having to think or deal with work. So it made me enjoy those feverish cuddles, never mind the daily outing we had planned that day.

Anyway, back to the current trip. I’ve enjoyed walking and running (more like slow jog, too many pastries) through Buenos Aires. My friends are staying in a safe area in Palermo, which is a neighborhood of neighborhoods and the largest barrio in the city. Their place is in Palermo Chacarita, littered with families, people of all ages, restaurants, bars, and cafes. Between all these establishments are murals and art on buildings and walls. 

When I look down, there’s dookie on the ground. But when I look up, I see stuff like this. Thanks for another good trip, Buenos Aires. Maybe I’ll see you again someday.

Mosaic and tiles from my friend’s apartment rooftop

A perfect mural for my friend’s son’s preschool

Unpacking some random things:

• Read: Dinners with Ruth A Memoir on the Power of Friendships By Nina Totenberg. I finished this book in BA and enjoyed an entertaining historical look of US politics through a reporter’s eyes. Her view on friendships, from all parts of her life, are encouraging and touching.

• Listen: Emma Chamberlain’s Anything Goes podcast on alcohol. I am nearly 20 years older than her but I closely identify with her relationship and experience with alcohol. It’s not about the immediate hangover for me, it’s the mental toll I experience for weeks after. Even with just 1 or 2 drinks.

• Check out: Here’s a travel-focused substack (plus other compelling topics) from a writing class colleague. Meet Samantha and subscribe!